Stick Guide
Choosing the right hockey stick comes down to three things: the right category, the right length, and the right flex. Get all three right and the stick disappears — you stop thinking about it and just play. Get one wrong and it'll hold you back without you necessarily knowing why.
This guide will walk you through each decision in order. If you get stuck at any point, our team is happy to help — just send us a message before you order.
Step 1
Find your category
Hockey sticks come in four categories: Youth, Junior, Intermediate, and Senior. The category determines the shaft dimensions, available lengths, and flex range. Everything else follows from this first decision — and it's based on height, not age.
Youth
For very young players, typically under 8. The smallest shaft dimensions make the stick easier to grip and control with small hands.
Junior
For players aged roughly 7–12, depending on height. Slightly larger shaft than Youth with more flex options available.
Intermediate
For teens and smaller adults. Same shaft as Junior but longer and with stiffer flex options — a noticeable step up in feel.
Senior
For adults and taller teens. Full-size shaft with the widest range of flex, length, and model options available.
Height, not age. A tall 11-year-old at 155 cm belongs in Intermediate. A smaller 14-year-old at 148 cm is still in Junior. Always go by height first.
On the boundary between two categories? Go up. A stick that's slightly too long can be cut down. A shaft that's too small for a player's hands will always feel wrong, and you can't fix that.
Step 2
Find your length
Stick length is measured from the top of the shaft to the heel of the blade. Getting this right is one of the more personal decisions in hockey — but there's a reliable method we use in-store that you can do at home.
The tippy-toes method
Rather than checking the stick in your socks or flat on the floor, stand on your tippy-toes. That height is roughly where you'll be on skates. Then hold the stick upright with the blade on the floor and check where the top of the shaft lands on your face.
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1Find a hard floor and take your shoes off.
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2Stand on your tippy-toes. This simulates your height on skates.
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3Hold the stick upright beside you with the blade flat on the floor.
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4Note where the top of the shaft sits in relation to your nose and chin.
For most players, between the tip of your nose and your chin is the ideal zone. But your position and playing style affect what works best for you.
You don't want kids outgrowing a stick too quickly. A little extra length won't hurt development the way too-short will. Nose is the minimum — anything lower and they'll be stooping and picking up bad habits.
Somewhere between your nose and chin on tippy-toes suits the majority of players. This gives you the best balance of reach, puck control, and stickhandling — a great place to start regardless of position.
A slightly longer stick gives more reach for poke checks, better gap control in the defensive zone, and more leverage for slap shots from the point. The trade-off is slightly slower stickhandling — which matters less at the back end.
Short vs long — what's the trade-off? Shorter sticks improve agility, puck control, and stickhandling speed. Longer sticks give you more reach and leverage for big shots. Neither is universally better — it depends on your position, style, and what feels natural. This is one of the questions we ask every customer.
Don't buy long and hope kids grow into it. A stick that's too long forces poor posture, slows stickhandling, and builds habits that are hard to undo. A properly sized stick now is worth more than an extra season of length.
Cutting a stick is completely normal. Most sticks come at maximum length and are designed to be trimmed. Cutting up to 4 cm off the top is standard practice. Keep in mind: cutting increases effective flex. A 77 flex cut by 3–4 cm will play a few points stiffer — factor this in if you're already at the top of your flex range.
Step 3 — The one most people get wrong
Find your flex
Flex is the stiffness of the shaft — the number tells you how many kilograms of force it takes to bend the stick. A flex 77 stick takes 77 kg of force to flex an inch. This matters because a stick needs to bend and snap back to transfer energy into your shot. If the shaft can't flex, that energy goes nowhere.
The starting point for NZ players is simple: your body weight in kilograms is roughly your ideal flex number. A 77 kg player starts at a 77 flex. A 50 kg player starts at a 50 flex.
For players roughly under 50 kg. Young players need softer flex to properly load and release the stick. Most kids need softer flex than their parents expect — this is the most common mistake we see.
For players between roughly 55–77 kg. This range also suits smaller Senior players who find the standard 87+ flex too stiff to work with effectively — don't force a stiffer flex just because you're in a Senior stick.
For adults 87 kg and above. Heavier players and defenders who take hard slap shots from distance often prefer stiffer flex for more power and predictability on big shots.
Position plays a role too. Forwards who rely on quick wrist shots often prefer slightly softer flex for a faster release. Defenders who slap from the blue line often go stiffer for more power. If you're unsure, start in the middle of your weight-based range and adjust from there.
The most common mistake for kids: parents often buy a stick that's too stiff because it looks more like what the pros use. A child who can't flex the shaft properly will develop a weak, push-style shot that's very hard to correct later. When in doubt, always go softer.
Cutting affects flex. Every 2.5 cm you cut from the top adds roughly 3–5 flex points. A 77 flex cut by 5 cm plays closer to an 80–85. Keep this in mind if you're planning to cut significantly.
Worth knowing
What is kick point?
Kick point is where the stick flexes most when you load up for a shot. It affects how the puck releases — not how hard you can shoot, but how quickly and smoothly the energy transfers from your shot into the puck. Two players with identical flex can have a very different shot feel depending on kick point.
The stick flexes closest to the blade. Energy transfers quickly — better for wrist shots, snap shots, and players who shoot on the move or in tight spaces.
Bauer example: Vapor series
The stick flexes mid-shaft, creating more of a whip effect. Better for players who wind up fully on slap shots and one-timers where maximum power is the priority.
Bauer example: Supreme series
For newer players, kick point matters considerably less than getting the flex and length right first. Once you're comfortable with your stick and developing a consistent shot, it becomes a worthwhile thing to think about. Ask us in-store and we can point you toward the right construction based on how you play.
Worth knowing
Shaft shape and blade feel
Once you've nailed down category, length, and flex, there are a few more variables worth being aware of — especially if you're stepping up to a higher-end stick or buying for the first time and want to know what the options mean.
Shaft shape
The cross-section shape of the shaft affects how the stick sits in your hands and how much feedback you feel through the blade.
Bauer's most popular shaft profile. The five-sided shape matches the natural contour of your hand — better grip and puck feel without needing heavy tape.
Easier to rotate and reposition in your hands. Suits players who stickhandle with a loose grip or frequently adjust their hand placement.
Square with rounded corners — a comfortable middle ground for players transitioning from older square-shaft sticks who want something more ergonomic.
Blade core
Softer blade cores give you more puck feel — you can sense where the puck is on the blade during stickhandling and passing. Stiffer blade cores transfer more energy into shots. Entry and mid-range sticks tend to use softer cores; higher-end sticks give you more choice. If puck feel is important to you, look for models with enhanced tactile feedback in the blade spec.
Grip vs no grip
Most Bauer sticks come in a grip finish (tacky exterior, better hold) or non-grip finish (smooth, easier to slide hands). Grip suits beginners and players with thinner gloves. Non-grip is preferred by players who frequently adjust their hand position during play. Neither is better — it's personal preference, and you'll know which you prefer after a few sessions.
Step 4
Blade curves
Once you have category, length, flex, and kick point sorted, the blade curve is the final piece. For beginners and younger players it matters considerably less than the fundamentals above — but here's a plain-English guide for when you're ready to think about it.
Every blade curve has three characteristics: where the curve sits on the blade (heel, mid, or toe), how deep the curve is, and how open the face angle is.
The most traditional curve. Balanced from heel to mid with a rounded toe and a face that stays relatively flat — shots stay low and accurate. The strongest backhand of the four patterns.
Best for: Defenders, accurate passing, low shots, strong backhands.
The most popular curve in the game. The curve deepens toward the toe and the face opens progressively — easy to lift the puck on wrist shots while still versatile enough for passing and backhand play.
Best for: All-round play, wrist shots, puck lifting, forwards of all styles.
The blade runs flat from heel to mid, then curves sharply at the toe. Exceptional for toe drags, quick-release wrist shots, and lifting the puck in tight spaces. The dramatic hook takes adjustment — backhands are noticeably harder.
Best for: Offensive forwards, toe drags, tight-space shooting, quick release.
Takes the P92's mid-curve versatility and combines it with the P28's toe hook. More offensive than the P92, more controllable than the P28. Popular with centres who need to do everything well.
Best for: Centres, hybrid play, all situations, players moving between P92 and P28.
New to hockey? Start with a P92 and don't overthink it. It's the most forgiving all-round curve and used by more players at every level than any other. Once you have a season of ice time you'll naturally develop preferences — that's the right time to experiment with something different.
Quick reference — all categories
Reference
Quick reference - all categories
Use your height to find your category, your weight (in kg) as your starting flex, then choose a stick length using the tippy-toes method.
| Category | Player height | Approx. weight | Stick length | Flex range | Shaft size |
|---|---|---|---|---|---|
| Youth | Under 129 cm | Under ~35 kg | 42 – 46" | 20 / 30 / 40 | 2.5 × 1.5 cm |
| Junior | 130 – 149 cm | ~35 – 50 kg | 50 – 54" | 30 / 40 / 50 | 2.7 × 1.7 cm |
| Intermediate | 150 – 169 cm | ~50 – 65 kg | 55 – 58" | 55 / 60 / 65 | 2.7 × 1.7 cm |
| Senior | 170 cm + | ~77 kg + | 60 – 64" | 65 / 70 / 77 / 87 / 95 / 102 | 3.0 × 2.0 cm |
Weight ranges are approximate guides for flex selection only — always use your actual body weight in kg as your starting point. Stick length should be confirmed using the tippy-toes method, not this table alone. Flex availability varies by model.
We'll help you get the right stick
If you're buying for a child, moving between categories for the first time, or just unsure which flex or curve suits your game — send us a message before you order. Tell us the player's height, weight, position, and experience level and we'll give you a clear recommendation. Our team has been doing this since 1974 and there's no such thing as a question too basic to ask.
Ask us about stick sizing →